Sarah Hughes: I never intended to go to Africa
In fact, for many years, I didn’t plan on travelling at all. When travel did eventually start to have some appeal for me, I assumed that I would visit Europe: the UK, Ireland, France maybe. “Safe” countries. Their appeal was their history and grandeur. I would be amazed and inspired by their architecture and museums. I would visit all the tourist sights and then I would come home, satisfied that I had seen the world. Overseas Experience? Tick.
Years passed, and I started to wonder if I would ever actually go. What was holding me back?
To start with, I didn’t have a companion or group to go travelling with. Plenty of people wanted me to come on their adventures, but I wanted my own adventure.
And I grudgingly admitted that I wanted my experience to be God-inspired. Sightseeing and shopping were all well and good, but if God couldn’t use the trip to grow me into the person he wanted, what would be the point?
A friend suggested volunteering. My initial reaction? No way! I was pretty certain I had no practical skills that would be of any use. At a push, I could help someone learn English. But they would have no need of that in Europe, and I hate teaching. There were summer camps in America where I could work, but I’m not naturally an active or adventurous person, so I discounted that idea.
Eventually frustration won out. I had to go somewhere. To this day, I’m not even sure how I decided on Kenya. But looking back, I suppose it makes sense.
I was inspired by musicians like Jars of Clay and Brooke Fraser whose faith led them to support those caught in the cycle of poverty and disease in Africa. I had been involved with organisations such as World Vision and the Hope Foundation, fundraising and trying to raise awareness for the work they do, particularly in Africa. I became a child sponsor: both my children live in Malawi…Africa.
Even though I’d had no desire to travel there, Africa had been on my radar for years.
I signed up for a short volunteer programme at an orphanage in Nairobi. I had low expectations about what I would achieve on my trip. It felt so cliché. Brooke went to Rwanda and wrote Albertine. Hayley Westenra became an ambassador for Unicef in Ghana. Social justice is so “right now”: all the celebrities are doing it, particularly in Africa.
I am no celebrity. I am shy, introverted, and stifled by my need to be perfect. My adventure would be simply a visit. I’d entertain some orphans in Kenya and maybe see a few wild animals (because everyone expects that). Then, since I was in the neighbourhood, I’d introduce myself to my sponsor kids in Malawi and view the water tank that All Saints fundraised for in Tanzania. Then I’d come home. Overseas experience? Tick. Extra merit for faith-inspired social justice element. Tick.
God must be laughing. I can’t believe I expected to have such a dull, dutiful encounter.
Africa was not what I expected at all. It was old and new, tradition and innovation, joy and sadness living together like that was a normal thing.
I was amazed and inspired, not by things, but by people. We kiwis have a “no. 8 wire” attitude right? We have a reputation for being can-do inventors who bypass established methods to get results. We don’t mind a bit of DIY. Don’t worry mate, she’ll be right.
Well Africans put us to shame. Turns out, we care more about “keeping up with the Joneses” than we might think. Can you imagine a kiwi child actually playing with a toy made out of old juice cartons, with bottle-lid wheels on sticks and pulled along with a piece of rope? Wouldn’t they get teased? I saw two boys playing with one in Kenya. But for them, this was a seriously cool toy. Say goodbye to your designer Buzzy Bees, here was recycling, economy and ingenuity combined. I wanted to find the boys’ parents and shake their hands.
All the children at the orphanage – including the older ones at college – survived on donated, often second-hand clothes. You would never know it. They wore them with pride. In New Zealand, surely it would be a mark of shame.
There isn’t the infrastructure to supply things like landline phones to houses in Africa. But it’s like they’ve skipped that step already: everyone uses cellphones. Communications companies are biiiiiiig business.
I started to ask myself: what would I do if the things I considered to be basic necessities were simply not available? Would I be angry? Despairing? Would I simply give up? You’d be a fool if you thought these people were ignorant. They know they don’t have what other people take for granted. But they don’t waste a lot of time bemoaning injustice. They get on with it. They’re proud of what they achieve. They dream big, they believe big. God is big news in Africa, because he has to be. There’s not really anything or anyone else to rely on.
The people I met could give us kiwis a few pointers on how to un-complicate our hectic lives, and relax a little. Always take the opportunity to share a cup of tea with family or new friends, even if you’re running late. Anytime is a good time for dancing! Don’t stress if things don’t work out straight away; a few days can make all the difference.
And on the flip side of that, they could teach us about what it’s like to really work for what you have. I learnt that I come from a soft country, and that softness is sometimes our undoing. It certainly doesn’t make us happy, all these things we have at the touch of a button or the flick of a switch.
We have plenty to offer them as well. Yes, money is definitely one thing. I’d be kidding myself if I said otherwise. But it’s not all. Our softness is part of our strength. Our compassion and our unwillingness to tolerate the suffering of others – particularly children - here is where we excel. African people do not lack compassion, but some seem unable to offer it. There are too many people, too many problems. They’ve learned to be hard on themselves, and expect the same from everyone else, no matter their age.
At the orphanage I visited, many of the children weren’t actually orphans. Their parents either couldn’t afford to keep them, or simply didn’t care. Children are left to fend for themselves on the streets when things get rough. It happens every day.
In New Zealand, that would be front page news, wouldn’t it? An outrage.
I was outraged. There was so much that seemed just wrong, that I’d never had to deal with before. I broke down the day a girl from the orphanage got a stomach bug, which I was afraid was malaria. The worst part was not her illness, but that there was nowhere for her to be sick. No quiet room away from the noise and well-intentioned pestering of her peers. No soft bed with clean sheets. No loving parent to take away the mess and the pain. The older children just ignored her, like she was a problem that would go away eventually. The staff were too busy preparing meals and washing clothes. She accepted it, like that was normal. It made me so mad. All I could do was sit with her, and worry. Did it mean anything to her? I don’t know.
Overall, I think what I had to offer was being free with my time, attention and compassion. It took me awhile to get the hang of it. I certainly wasn’t able to do it on my own. I’m wary and timid at heart. I like my space. I needed help from the other volunteers, support from the local NGOs and encouragement from people at home. Thankfully I had all of those. And I’m kinda proud of my achievements. I travelled halfway round the world on my own. I’ve actually met the children I sponsor; I can’t wait to write to them and tell them how good that was. Nasema kidogo kiswahili (I speak a little Swahili). I learnt so much about myself, and about God. I had fun!
Will I go back? I hope so.
I never expected that I’d want to. Even while I was there, I couldn’t imagine putting myself through the experience twice. But I have unfinished business now.
I met some amazing people, but I didn’t stay long enough to know them well. I never got to visit the water tank in Tanzania, I never saw Kibera slum. I’m left wondering what will happen to some of the kids I met, not to mention the good people who have taken them in.
I don’t want to sweep my visit under the carpet, and pretend that because of the distance, that these people aren’t precious to me. They accepted and loved me while I was still a stranger. They are part of me now, whether I like it or not. I think I like it.
For more information about volunteering, or to learn more about the people I worked with, check out these links:
International Volunteer HQ: a New Zealand company that sets volunteers up with opportunities all over the world
all over the world
Fadhili Helpers: the NGO that I volunteered with in Kenya
in Kenya
Jump for Joel: a site dedicated to supporting the Gathiga Children’s Hope Home (the orphanage where I worked)
World Vision: a Christian charity supporting needy communities all over the world through child sponsorship, community development and emergency assistance
VSA’s Guide to Volunteering Overseas: a booklet written for young people wanting to know more about volunteering